Chapter 10 · Stocks, Sauces & Condiments
Classic Tartar Sauce (Sauce Dérivée)
A texturally rich, acid-forward emulsion designed to cut through fried seafood.
Yield: 400 g (~1.5 cups) | Prep: 15 min | Cook: 0 min | Total: 15 min
Headnote
While often treated as an afterthought, a great Tartar Sauce relies on moisture management. By aggressively drying the brine-heavy garnish before mixing, we preserve the viscosity of the mayonnaise base. We utilize cornichons for their firm texture and tart bite, creating a sauce that clings to the food rather than sliding off. Teaching Idea: Emulsion Stability. Introducing free water (pickle brine) to an oil-in-water emulsion (mayonnaise) dilutes the continuous phase, weakening the structure.
Ingredients
The Base
- 225 g (1 cup) Master Mayonnaise (Recipe 10-09) or high-quality store-bought
- 5 g (1 tsp) Dijon Mustard (smooth)
- 3 g (½ tsp) Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt
- 1 g (¼ tsp) White Pepper, ground
The Garnish (Solids)
- 60 g (½ cup) Cornichons, finely minced and dried
- 15 g (1 tbsp) Capers, rinsed, minced, and dried
- 15 g (1 tbsp) Shallot, finely minced
- 5 g (1 tbsp) Fresh Dill, minced (fronds only)
- 5 g (1 tbsp) Fresh Chives, finely minced
The Adjusters
- 15 ml (1 tbsp) Lemon Juice, fresh
- 2 g (½ tsp) Sugar, granulated (optional, to taste)
- 2 dashes Tabasco Sauce
Mise en Place (Action Checklist)
- Mince and Wring: Finely brunoise (mince) the cornichons and capers. Place them in a clean towel and squeeze tightly to remove excess brine.
- Macerate: Finely mince the shallot and toss with the lemon juice in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes.
- Chiffonade: Slice herbs as finely as possible to maximize aromatic release.
Method
Phase 1: The Acid Bloom.
- In a small non-reactive bowl, combine the minced shallot and lemon juice.
- Let stand for 5–10 minutes.
Why: The acid “cooks” the raw shallot slightly, taming its harsh sulfurous compounds and turning them sweet and mild.
Phase 2: The Incorporation.
- In a medium mixing bowl, place the Master Mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. Whisk gently to combine.
- Add the dried cornichons, dried capers, and the shallot-lemon mixture.
- Fold gently with a silicone spatula until evenly distributed.
Sensory Cue: The mixture should look “chunky” and hold its shape. If it looks glossy and runny, the vegetables were not dried enough.
Phase 3: Season and Cure.
- Fold in the fresh dill, chives, salt, white pepper, and Tabasco.
- Taste for seasoning. The sauce should be punchy and tart. If it feels too sharp, add the sugar sparingly.
- Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly against the surface and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.
Why: Cold fat holds air better than warm fat, and the resting period allows the flavors to meld (diffusion).
Chef’s Notes
- Storage: Keeps for 5 days in the refrigerator. Do not freeze (the emulsion will break upon thawing).
- Commercial Mayo Adjustments: If using store-bought mayonnaise (which is often sweeter and stiffer than homemade), increase the lemon juice by 1 tsp and omit the sugar entirely.
- Texture: For a refined sauce, pulse the cornichons and capers in a food processor, but do not puree; we want distinct texture points.
Glossary
- Sauce Dérivée: A “daughter sauce” created by adding flavorings to a leading “Mother Sauce” (in this case, Mayonnaise).
- Brunoise: A very fine dice (approx. 3mm cubes).
- Emulsion: A mixture of two liquids that normally don’t mix (oil and water/vinegar), held together by an emulsifier (egg yolk).